Valpolicella and the “Big Red” Amarone
Production area
The production area of the appellation “Valpolicella” covers the entire foothills of the province of Verona, involving 19 municipalities and about 30,000 acres. Its territory borders to the west with Lake Garda, while to the east and north it is protected by the Lessini Mountains.
According to the production specification it is divided into three distinct areas:
- The “Classico” area, formed by five geographical areas, namely the area of Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella and San Pietro in Cariano, the valleys of Fumane, Marano di Valpolicella and Negrar di Valpolicella.
- The Valpantena area, which includes the homonymous valley.
- The DOC area with the districts of Verona and the valleys of Illasi, Tramigna and Mezzane.
The numbers of Valpolicella:
About the history:
The presence of the vine has been documented since the Middle Eocene, with fossils of ampelides dating back to about 40 million years ago.
In the Iron Age, Vitis vinifera sativa was introduced in the region, probably by the Etruscans, together with the production techniques of wine.
The people of the Arusnati, of Rhaeto-Etruscan origin, lived in the Valpolicella, organizing themselves in pagi and vici (villages). The wine produced in this region, known as “Rhaetian wine”, was already appreciated by the Romans, as evidenced by the writings of Cato the Censor, Strabo and Virgil.
During the Augustan period, Rhaetian wine reached its peak and was considered a panacea.
In the Middle Ages, under the rule of Theodoric King of the Ostrogoths, Valpolicella was renowned for the production of a sweet wine called “Acinatico”, described as dense and purple in color.
Over the centuries, Valpolicella has experienced various phases of development and domination by different powers, including the Serenissima Republic of Venice.
In the fourteenth century, the valley began to become known for the culture and hospitality of its inhabitants, so as to earn the name of “Valley of poets”.
The birth of the name and the myth “Amarone” dates back to 1936 but during those years the sweet wines were considered the most precious product.
In 1968 the DOC Valpolicella was born, with the drafting of the first disciplinary. At that time it included the Valpolicella and the Recioto della Valpolicella, while the Amarone is mentioned only as a “dry” variant of Recioto. The “Grande Rosso” (Big Red) however continues to increase its success, so much so that in 1990 it was finally decided to distinguish it from Recioto, having its own production disciplinary.
Amarone had a growing success and in 2010 it obtained the prestigious DOCG label.
The grapes:
Only local grapes varieties are used to make Valpolicella wines.
Corvina: the backbone of the blend of Valpolicella wines. It gives structure, aromas and softness to the wine.
Corvinone: characterized by very spicy hints of cherry. It gives aromatic complexity and structure to the wine.
Rondinella: very resistant to weather and disease, this variety gives color and flavor to the wine
Molinara: complementary autochthonous variety. It gives freshness and sapidity to the wine
Also less common local grape varieties like Oseleta, Croatina, Dindarella and Spigamonte can be used in the blend.
Types of wine
Valpolicella DOC:
Valpolicella is a young and fine wine with a vinous, subtle and fresh taste, dry or quite soft, pleasantly lively. It is obtained from a classic red wine making of Valpolicella grapes, followed by a short aging.
The “Superiore” type, which must have higher qualitative characteristics, is produced with the grapes chosen from the best vineyards, sometimes with light drying leading to higher alcohol content and structure; before being placed on the market, it must age at least one year in barrel.
Color: ruby red
Nose: fresh and delicate cherry, vinous, hints of rose petals
Palate: dry but fresh, savory, pleasantly tannic, velvety and lively
Pairings: the vintage version is well appreciated together with appetizers, light first courses and white meat; very enjoyable with fresh summer dishes. The decisive character of the “Superiore” makes it suitable to accompany main courses, favoring red meat and medium-aged cheeses.
Valpolicella Ripasso DOC
Valpolicella Ripasso is a wine of medium body and pretty consistent alcoholic content, obtained by the refermentation of Valpolicella base on the residual pomace of Amarone and Recioto (the operation of “Ripasso”, in fact) which gives the wine an increase in terms of alcohol, polyphenolic substances and extracts: this results in a unique product in the world a marked roundness and excellent longevity.
Color: deep ruby red
Nose: ripe cherry, red fruits, vanilla, slightly ethereal
Palate: refined, harmonious, and full bodied
Pairings: for its characteristics of pleasantness and structure Ripasso can accompany winter first courses, meat dishes, grilled meats and medium-aged cheeses.
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
The most prestigious wine of Valpolicella, whose excellence and uniqueness are recognized all over the world, is obtained first of all by the drying of the grapes (appassimento), which rest in the “fruttaio” for 3-4 months: in this period the precious substances of the berries are concentrated, such as sugars and polyphenols.
The dried grapes are vinified in winter, and a slow and skillful fermentation leads to a dry wine with a high alcohol content. A long aging in oak barrels (min. 2 years) perfects its unique structure and personality, making it able to preserve and evolve for decades.
Color: deep ruby red, sometimes tending to garnet due to the aging
Nose: accentuated, characteristic, intense, red fruit, dried fruit, spicy, tobacco, balsamic
Palate: strong personality, fine, elegant, dry, full body, soft tannins, strong fragrance, vigorous, rich flavor and delicate spices
Pairings: given its importance on an organoleptic level, it goes well with meat dishes, game, roasts and stews, well-aged cheeses, but it can also be tasted alone as a meditation wine.
Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG
The ancestor of Amarone, the oldest wine of the Denomination that has come to us through the centuries, begins its production process always from the grapes dried in the “fruttaio”.
Once the necessary sugar concentration has been obtained, the wine is vinified, and later the fermentation is stopped to keep the percentage of sugar needed to guarantee the sweetness and the typical structure of this wine. It is therefore the only sweet wine produced in Valpolicella, but it is never cloying thanks to its strong tone and good acidity.
Color: impenetrable ruby red
Nose: accentuated, notes of fruit in spirit, dried fruit, balsamic
Palate: warm, delicate, good flavor, balanced sweetness, velvety with hints of vanilla
Pairings: being a sweet wine, it is particularly suitable to accompany desserts, chocolate and cheeses.
Source: Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella
Brunello di Montalcino
About the history
The birth of Brunello di Montalcino dates back to the nineteenth century, when some Montalcino farmers begin to experiment the production of a red wine with the grapes of a vine traditionally cultivated in the area.
A vine called “Brunello” or “Brunellino” which, towards the mid-nineteenth century, is identified as a variety of Sangiovese.
The father of Brunello di Montalcino was certainly Clemente Santi. In 1869 one of his “Vino Scelto” (Brunello), from the 1865 harvest, was awarded a silver medal by the Comizio Agrario of Montepulciano. In the following years Brunello obtained other important international awards beating the French reds even in Paris and Bordeaux.
For many years Brunello remained a rarity for a few refined connoisseurs. It’s only in the second half of the twentieth century that, from a delicacy for a few, turned into a world symbol of the best made in Italy.
With the birth of the DOC (Protected Designation of Origin), Brunello lives a protagonist phase and is part of the group of the first eight wines to which the denomination of origin is attributed. In 1980 Brunello di Montalcino is the first wine to obtain the DOCG, the higher quality level protection and since then all its bottles have been closed by a State mark that guarantees their origin.
Many awards attest to the quality of the wine: in 1999 the prestigious American magazine “Wine Spectator” inserted a Brunello among the 12 best wines of the 20th century and in 2006 crowned a Brunello at the top of the world ranking.
The numbers of Brunello
In 2021 almost 11,4 million bottles of Brunello di Montalcino were produced.
Sales abroad make up 70% of production. Leading the foreign market are the USA, with over 30%, followed by Europe (with the UK still growing, Germany and Switzerland in the lead) to 20%, Asian markets (China, Japan, Hong Kong, etc.) that reach 15%, Canada (12%) and Central and South America (8%).
Types of wine
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
The Brunello di Montalcino is made from Sangiovese grapes, a grape variety traditionally called in Montalcino, “Brunello”.
The production specification stipulates that the maximum production of grapes per hectare is less than 80 quintals/acre (about 52 hl./ha of wine).
The wine can be put on sale starting from the 1st January of the fifth year after the year of harvest. During this long period, the wine must spend at least two years in wooden casks and at least four months of aging in bottle. The storage period in the bottle grows up to six months for the reserve type.
Also, the bottle used for this wine must be the “Bordeaux” shape.
Because of its characteristics, Brunello di Montalcino can stand long aging, improving over time. It is difficult to say how many years this wine improves in bottle. This in fact depends on the vintage. It goes from a minimum of 10 years up to 30, but can be stored even longer
Color: lively garnet color.
Nose: it has an intense, persistent, broad and ethereal parfume. There are scents of undergrowth, aromatic wood, small fruits, light vanilla and composite jam.
Palate: elegant and harmonious body, it is dry with long aromatic persistence.
Pairings: very structured and complex dishes, red meat, feathered game, possibly accompanied by mushrooms and truffles. It is also ideal with international dishes based on meat or sauces.
Rosso di Montalcino DOC
Younger wine that combines a superb structure qualities with particular vivacity and freshness.
The grape variety used for this wine is always the Sangiovese.
Color: bright ruby red
Nose: good intensity and fragrance, scents of fresh fruits.
Palate: harmoniously dry, medium body, freshness with a good aromatic persistence.
It is a wine ready to drink, not to be stored for long.
Sources: Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino; InToscana
The extraordinary wines of Piedmont: Barolo and Barbaresco
About the history of Barolo
In the mid-nineteenth century, thanks to the stubbornness of Camillo Benso Count of Cavour and Giulia Colbert Falletti, the last Marquise of Barolo, from the vineyards around Barolo an exceptionally rich and harmonious wine had begun to be produced, destined to become the ambassador of the Savoy in the courts of all Europe.
Together with Barbaresco, Barolo has travelled all the moments of enhancement of the twentieth century starting from the association “Pro-Barolo”, the foundation of the Consortium then obtaining the DOC and DOCG to the start of the Control Plan for Certification required by the European Union in 2005.
The close link between the intrinsic characteristics of wine and the noble tastes of the nineteenth century gave rise to the saying “the king of wines, the wine of kings”.
Production area
It is produced in the municipalities of Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, Novello, Grinzane Cavour.
La Morra, Monforte, Verduno, Novello, Grinzane Cavour, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco and Roddi are only interested with portions of their territories.
The Langhe
Langhe is the area where Barolo is produced is located in the southern part of Piedmont, close to the Maritime Alps and the Ligurian Apennines.
The name, of Celtic origin, means “land tongues” and refers to the elongated hills, often with very steep slopes, arranged so as to run parallel to each other to form many deep and narrow valleys. The territory of the Langhe is one of the most generous regions in the world for the quality and variety of wine production.
The roots of this exceptional nature are to be found in the particular geographical location, the suitable climate and the rich subsoil that distinguish these hilly areas and make them an environment with an abundant biodiversity.
The grapes
The wines of the Langhe have a precise territorial identity and traceable to the terroir of origin, which reaches its maximum expression with the traditional vinification in purity that originates mono-varietal wines of strong personality.
Nebbiolo:
It is the oldest native black grape of Piedmont, one of the noblest and most valuable in Italy. Its name derives from “nebbia” (fog): according to some because its berries give the impression of being “clouded”, covered by abundant plum; according to others, instead, because of the late ripening of the grape pushes the harvest to the dawn of the first autumn fogs.
It is very demanding in terms of location and exposure of the soil, processing and fertilization. The calcareous and tufa soils are ideal for this vine that sprouts early between the middle and the end of April.
It ripens rather late than others, in the first half of October.
Quite sensitive to sudden changes in temperature, it takes advantage of the oscillations between day and night during ripening but the richness of tannins in its skin requires hilly locations well exposed to the sun, preferably south-southwest, between 200 and 450 m. above sea level.
Strong and powerful wines are obtained, which often express their best characteristics following a slow aging
Types of wine
Barolo:
It is one of the greatest Italian wines par excellence, made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. It was born in the heart of the hills of Langa, a few kilometers south of the city of Alba, in the territory of 11 municipalities.
Barolo must age at least three years, in addition to the two months following the harvest, of which one and a half in oak. And only after five years of aging it can be called “Riserva”.
It has a full and intense garnet color, at the same time fruity and spicy scent; both on the nose and in the mouth it recalls small red fruits, cherries in spirit and jam, but also gives suggestions of rose and dried violet, cinnamon and pepper, nutmeg, vanilla and sometimes licorice, cocoa, tobacco and leather.
Vignarionda
Vigna Rionda, with its 10 acres, is among the most coveted mentions of Serralunga d’Alba, an exceptional place where Barolo expresses itself in a unique way.
It is located in the heart of the western slope of the scenic hilly ridge of the municipality of Serralunga d’Alba: a vineyard already known and appreciated in 1879, as demonstrated by the Agricultural Survey on the production of wine in the Langhe carried out by the Monfortese scholar Giovanni Gagna.
A notoriety that has consolidated significantly over the decades, it is thanks to a producer of the finest class as Bruno Giacosa, the most prepared among the négociant of Langa, if in the late sixties this vineyard was already known beyond national borders.
The particularly favorable exposure (almost always south-west, with the exception of the parcel full west in the western end of the Cru), the location isolated from other mentions and the protection received by the hills of Perno and Castelletto are elements that make Vigna Rionda a particularly sunny vineyard. A feature that contributes to the creation of austere and long-lived Barolo, with a natural propensity to concentration that often results in an imposing body, with a thick and uncompromising tannic texture.
Barbaresco:
Barbaresco is made from 100% Nebbiolo like Barolo, but the production area is different and includes the entire territory of the Municipalities of Barbaresco, Treiso, Neive and part of the Municipality of Alba. it has an intense and brilliant color that goes from ruby red to garnet and a stimulating bouquet of aromas still fruity yet ethereal that recall raspberry and red fruit jam, geranium and violet, but also green pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg, hay and wood, toasted hazelnut, vanilla and even anise. It must age at least two years of which nine months in oak and after four years it can be called “Riserva”.
It reaches its best between 5 and 10 years but can also be much longer.
Sources: Consorzio Langhe Vini; Enocode
The elegant bubbles of Franciacorta
About the history of Franciacorta
The name Franciacorta takes us back to a distant story, surrounded by an enigma on which we still love to fantasize. The most reliable hypothesis is that the territory is linked to the presence of Cluniac and Cistercian monasteries that arrived in Franciacorta from Cluny in the 11th century. Very powerful monasteries that, thanks to the reclamation and cultivation of the vast plots that they administered in these territories, were able around 1100 to obtain exemption from the payment of duty. So they were Francae Curtes, that is, tax-free courts. The name “Franzacurta” from Francae Curtes was born, appeared for the first time in the annals of the Municipality of Brescia already in 1277.
In 1426 a conspiracy of nobles gave the city of Brescia to the Republic of Venice. The tall crenellated towers appear, a distinctive trait of Franciacorta.
One of the first mentions of sparkling wines is found in the text written by the Brescian physician Girolamo Conforti in 1570, with the significant title of “Libellus de vino mordaci”. This doctor, whose studies preceded the intuitions of the illustrious abbot Dom Perignon, highlighted the remarkable diffusion and the wide consumption that wines with bubbles had at that time, calling them “biting”, lively and bubbly.
At the beginning of the 60s of the twentieth century, the young enologist Franco Ziliani, with his production of the first vintage of “Pinot di Franciacorta” started the transition from the amateur production of sparkling wines ante litteram to the modern and codified production of Franciacorta.
Following the first recognition as Denomination of Controlled Origin in 1967, Franciacorta became in 1995 the first Italian territory and wine produced with the method of refermentation in bottle to have obtained the DOCG.
Production area
The production area is in the province of Brescia and includes the entire territory of the municipalities of Paratico, Capriolo, Adro, Erbusco, Cortefranca, Iseo, Ome, Monticelli Brusati, Rodengo Saiano, Paderno Franciacorta, Passirano, Glio provad’Iseo, Cellatica and Gussago, as well as the part of the territory of the municipalities of Cologne, Coccaglio, Rovato and Cazzago S. Martino
The grapes
Chardonnay:
The wine obtained from this vine has excellent texture, intense aroma, fragrant and complex, with varietal hints of fruit and flowers, good structure and pleasant freshness.
Chardonnay is mainly used in the production of wines bases for the cuvée,
Pinot Noir:
Pinot Noir is the second vine for diffusion in Franciacorta and occupies about 17% of the total area.
It is mainly used in the “millesimé” and Franciacorta DOCG Reserves, to which it offers structure and longevity; it is also an indispensable component for Franciacorta Rosé cuvées, in which it must represent at least 35%.
Pinot Blanc:
Despite having a residual presence (it occupies only 3% of the total surface), Pinot Blanc is very important in the enrichment of cuvées (max 50%).
Erbamat:
The main reasons for the introduction of this variety in the production disciplinary of Franciacorta are ascribed to two main reasons: the desire to recover a greater identity and diversification of the product thanks to a deep link with the territory and the need to mitigate the effects of climate change especially on early grapes such as Chardonnay and Pinot.
The remarkable acidity of this variety, allows to give a contribution of freshness to the bases without however upsetting its profile, thanks to its substantial aromatic neutrality. At the moment, Erbamat enters the ampelographic base of Franciacorta in a maximum of 10% for all types except Satèn.
The Franciacorta:
Franciacorta, unlike another famous Italian sparkling wine, Prosecco, is made with the classic method through the natural refermentation in bottle and subsequent slow maturation and aging on lees.
Types of wine
Franciacorta DOCG:
At least 18 months of aging on lees
Colour: yellow with golden reflections, fine and persistent perlage,
Nose: characteristic bouquet of fermentation in the bottle, hints of bread crust and yeast enriched with delicate notes of citrus and dried fruit (almond, hazelnut, dried figs).
Palate: savory, fresh, fine and harmonious.
Franciacorta DOCG Satèn:
At least 24 months of aging on lees.
Colour: deep yellow
Nose: nuanced but firm aroma of white fruit and ripe yellow, accompanied by delicate notes of white flowers and dried fruit also toasted (almond and hazelnut).
Palate: a pleasant sapidity and freshness harmonize with an innate softness and creaminess that recalls the delicate sensations of silk. The taste confirms the olfactory perceptions: floral, yellow fruit, pleasant sensation of vanilla and notes of butter (if fermentation in wood).
Only the Brut version is allowed
Franciacorta DOCG Millesimato
The word “millesimato” indicates that the wine comes for at least 85% from a single vintage. The Millesimato is produced when the vintage is particularly qualitative and is enhanced with longer aging than those of the cuvée (non-vintage Franciacorta). It must be aged on the lees for at least 30 months.
The sensorial and gustatory personality of the Millesimato reflects the climatic characteristics of the vintage and the qualitative expressions of the grapes of that specific harvest.
Franciacorta DOCG Rosé
Grapes: Chardonnay (maximum 65%), Pinot Noir (minimum 35%), Pinot Blanc (maximum 50%), Erbamat (maximum 10%)
Pinot Noir grapes ferment in contact with the skin for the time necessary to give the wine the desired intensity of color and then it’s blended with Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc The minimum period of aging on yeasts is 24 months.
Colour: from light to deep pink
Nose: delicate and complex, with hints of wild strawberries, currant and raspberry typical of Pinot Noir.
Palate: fine and well structured, with a balanced acidic content. Strong notes of fruits and red flowers that strengthen the olfactory sensations accompanied by toasted nuances and bread crust.
Franciacorta DOCG Riserva
Franciacorta Riserva are Vintage wines with a particular quality that, in order to fully express their olfactory and gustatory qualities, must remain on the lees for many years. The Specification requires at least 60 months of aging on yeasts.
Complex and evolved notes typical of the longer aging in bottle.
Italy’s most known red wine: Sassicaia
About the history
In the region, particularly within the undulating terrain that was once marshland for centuries, traces of human activity have been recorded since the 12th century B.C. This land was under the influence of the Etruscans, and viticulture thrived even before the Greeks arrived in southern Italy or Rome was founded.
Though Bolgheri’s history stretches far back, the land that now houses most of the vineyards and farms remained relatively undeveloped for centuries. It wasn’t until the late 1600s that the Counts of Gherardesca decided to rejuvenate the area, planting the first vineyards in the flat areas of San Guido and Belvedere. Guidalberto della Gherardesca played a pivotal role in this development.
However, in the latter half of the 1800s, the progress initiated by Guidalberto was abruptly halted by diseases imported from America. The history of Bolgheri took a significant turn with the arrival of Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, who came to Tuscany through his marriage to Countess Clarice della Gherardesca in 1930.
In the same year, Charlotte, Clarice’s sister, married Marquis Niccolò Antinori. These two families divided the largest estate in Bolgheri. In a region where red wines were generally rustic, Marquis Mario Incisa aspired to create a new style of wine inspired by the quality of French wines.
In 1942 and 1944, Mario Incisa planted Cabernet Marzas, an Italian clone, obtained from the Salviati Dukes in Migliarino Pisano and Castiglioncello di Bolgheri respectively, in an area protected by the nearby sea.
By the late 1960s, Marquis Piero Antinori, grandson of Marquis Mario and son of Niccolò Antinori, suggested that they start selling their wine. The marketing was entrusted to Marchesi Antinori, where a young winemaker named Giacomo Tachis was already working. This marked the beginning of Tachis’s collaboration with Mario Incisa in wine production.
In 1972, the first official Sassicaia was produced from the 1968 harvest. Just two years later, wine critic Gino Veronelli fell in love with Sassicaia and introduced it to the Italian market. Notably, in a blind tasting organized by Decanter, the 1978 Sassicaia outperformed other Cabernets globally. The true turning point, however, was in 1985, when Robert Parker awarded the first 100 points to an Italian wine, solidifying Sassicaia’s legendary status.
While Bolgheri’s red wine history until the 1970s was predominantly associated with Sassicaia, other producers began to follow in Marquis Mario’s footsteps, starting in 1978. Interestingly, those initially inspired by Sassicaia were not locals, like Marquis Mario himself. Notable among them was Piermario Meletti Cavallari, who established Podere Grattamacco after moving from Bergamo in 1977.
On the Belvedere estate, Marquis Lodovico Antinori created Ornellaia, and his older brother Piero established Tenuta Guado al Tasso. The sole native of Bolgheri in this group was Eugenio Campolmi, founder of Le Macchiole.
In 1994, the production regulations for the DOC were reformed, permitting red wines that included grapes like Cabernet and Merlot. Simultaneously, the Bolgheri Sassicaia sub-area was included in the specification, detailing the territorial boundaries near Bolgheri suitable for producing this fine wine, centered around Tenuta San Guido.
In January 1995, the Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini DOC Bolgheri was established to ensure the protection of Bolgheri wines. Marquis Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta served as President until his retirement. In 2011, to prevent inflating the area’s growing success, the DOC quotas were frozen, and the regulations were updated to encompass wines produced with the three primary grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, both as blends and monovarietals.
Production area
The territory within which the production of Bolgheri DOC wines is allowed coincides with the administrative boundaries of the Municipality of Castagneto Carducci, in the province of Livorno, with the exception of the coastal belt located west of Via Aurelia.
It is a natural theatre, where the Metalliferous Hills represent the bleachers to the east, arriving with their lowest offshoots to the coast. The hilly areas are mostly covered with forests, thus ensuring the maintenance of a complex ecosystem. The arena is instead the flattest area where most of the vineyards grow, while the stage on which Bolgheri overlooks is the sea, dominated by the profiles of the Tuscan archipelago and the horizon of Corsica
Types of wine
Bolgheri’s red wines typically build their foundation upon a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, along with Merlot, occasionally complemented by Syrah, Petit Verdot, and on rare occasions, Sangiovese. In recent times, an increasing number of wineries have begun crafting monovarietal wines using one of the three primary grape varieties. This trend showcases wines of significant stature, renowned for their impressive aging potential.
The aromatic profile of these wines is distinguished by the richness of ripe, luscious black fruits, underscored by balsamic nuances reminiscent of the Mediterranean scrublands, an unmistakable hallmark of the Bolgheri terroir. Upon the palate, a striking sense of smoothness and gentleness prevails, with the fruit’s natural sweetness unfolding elegantly in the mid-palate. This sensation is beautifully balanced by the refreshing acidity, imparting vibrancy, and complemented by a velvety, substantial tannic structure that lends the wine a luxurious texture. The journey culminates in a lingering finish that leaves a lasting impression. It’s worth noting that these wines often exhibit a savory undertone, evoking the proximity of the sea and enhancing their complexity.
Bolgheri DOC Rosso
Minimum one year of ageing.
Colour: Ruby red, garnet red.
Nose: Fruity, Vinous
Palate: dry, harmonious
Bolgheri DOC Rosso Superiore
Minimum two years of ageing of which one in oak barrels
Colour: pect Ruby red, garnet red.
Nose: vinous, elegant
Palate: dry, harmonious, full-bodied, robust
Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC
Aged minimum two years of which at least 18 months in 225 litre barriques
Grapes: minimum 80% Cabernet Sauvignon
Sassicaia is undoubtedly one of the most famous Italian wines in the world and Tenuta San Guido is the only estate with vineyards suitable for the production of Sassicaia DOC Bolgheri wine.
The nose immediately expresses fruity notes of ripe cherries, black currants, and blackberries, accompanied by hints of Mediterranean scrubland herbs like rosemary. Additionally, nuances of a blend of dried flowers, tobacco, and cocoa emerge. On the palate, it presents a distinctive balance and harmony, showcasing evident elegance through its well-integrated tannins and vibrant freshness that give it fullness. It astonishes with its prolonged persistence. Sassicaia is a wine that is unafraid of time, on the contrary, it benefits from it.
The difference between Prosecco DOC and Prosecco Superiore DOCG
About the history
Since the mid-thirteenth century the place name “Prosech” or “Prosecum”, but also the more modern “Proseco”, referred to a small town, bordering to the south-east with the Bishopric of Trieste and to the north with the territory of Duino. Still today Prosecco is a small town in the Province of Trieste, in the extreme north-east of the Italian peninsula. As for the production of wine in that place, the first mentions of the place date back to this period and they come from a deed for the rental of four vineyards.
It is therefore certain that certain vineyards were located on the sunny slopes running down from Prosecco towards the sea, sheltered from the cold winds of the Bora, where there was a marl-sandstone terrain, in ancient times covered by the sea, conducive to the production of very particular grapes.
At the beginning of the sixteenth century the wines coming from the Prosecco area were identified in certain literary studies of some importance: Pietro Bonomo (Trieste 1458-1546), a poet and a man of great culture, secretary and advisor to three Austrian sovereigns, studied the Natural History of Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD) and he was particularly interested in the story of the Empress Livia (58 BC to 29 AD), wife of the Emperor Octavian Augustus, who, he writes, reached a venerable age in comfort maintaining herself in good health thanks to the qualities of the legendary Pucino wine, loved by the Romans and coming from the Prosecco area.
The story was later reported by the famous doctor Galen (129-216 AD) which contributed to spreading the therapeutic fame of the Pucino wine over the succeeding centuries.
Starting from the eighteenth century, a real symbiosis began between the population and this pleasant, versatile and moderately alcoholic drink produced in the area from grapes coming from the East.
Francesco Maria Malvolti mentioned the the grape used to produce Prosecco at the beginning of the nineteenth century and from that moment the documents mentioning it became ever more frequent and clear. We can say that this is how the modern history of Prosecco began (and there is no longer any doubt that by Prosecco we mean the white wine produced in these arduous hills). Hills where the grape variety grew particularly well, gradually supplanting the cultivation of other grapes in the area, finally becoming the unique and undisputed master of the area in the mid-twentieth century.
In 1962 eleven producers established the Consortium for the protection of Prosecco in Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.
In 1969 the Prosecco produced in the fifteen municipalities of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene were recognized as DOC (Controlled Designation of Origin), although only in 2009 Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene was promoted to DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin) and the production of the nine provinces, from Trieste to Vicenza, previously designated IGT, was subsequently designated DOC.
Production area
The production area of Prosecco DOC is located in the North East of Italy and more precisely in the territories falling in 4 provinces of Friuli Venezia Giulia (Gorizia, Pordenone, Trieste and Udine) and in 5 provinces of Veneto (Belluno, Padua, Treviso, Venice, Vicenza), while the area of Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene is much smaller, it covers 15 municipalities around the town of Conegliano and the mentions Asolo, Rive and Cartizze.
Not only is there a significant difference in the size of production zones, but also in terms of category. In fact, when referring to Prosecco Superiore, we are talking about a DOCG that adheres to stricter regulations compared to the DOC. Furthermore, being a “superiore,” this wine has a higher alcohol content compared to the DOC version.
The grape
The grape variety used for the production of Prosecco DOC come mainly from Glera, an autochthonous vine.
Traditionally, Glera may be combined with up to 15% Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, Glera lunga, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Pinot nero grapes, vinified off the skins.
How are the bubbles formed?
Once the best grapes have been picked, the white wine can be produced, transforming sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide.
The yeast activity, also known as fermentation, lasts around 15-20 days at a maximum temperature of 18°C to preserve the most delicate aromas and flavours.
The first variety to be bottled is Prosecco Tranquillo (still), while the Frizzante (bubbly) and Spumante (sparkling) varieties require a second natural fermentation.
The second fermentation, which uses the Italian Method also known as the Martinotti Method, occurs in large pressure chambers called autoclaves. This is how the wine acquires its famous bubbles.
Towards the end of the process of producing sparkling wine, which takes at least 30 days, the temperature is reduced in order to end fermentation, leaving a residual sugar content that gives the wine an even, balanced flavour.
Types of wine
According to the sugar content Prosecco in general can be:
- Brut nature: 0-3 g/l.
- Extra brut: 0-6 g/l.
- Brut: less than 12 g/l.
- Extra dry: 12-17 g/l.
- Dry: 17-32 g/l.
- Demi-sec: 32-50 g/l.
Prosecco DOC spumante:
Colour: varying intensities of straw yellow, bright, with persistent foam.
Aroma: Fine, characteristic, typical of the grapes used;
Alcohol content: 11,00% vol;
Taste: from brut to demi-sec, fresh and characteristic;
Minimum total acidity: 5,0 g/l
Minimum sugar-free extract: 14,0 g/l
Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG
This wine is produced exclusively in the hills of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene zone.
The permitted grape yield in the vineyards is 13.5 tonnes per hectare. Each winery, by skilfully mixing the grapes from the various micro-zones of the area.
Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Rive
The term “Rive” indicates, in the local way of speaking, the slopes of the steep hills that are characteristic of the zone. This category of wine highlights the diverse expressions of Conegliano Valdobbiadene. Rive wines are often obtained from the most precipitous, high-quality vineyards, from grapes grown in a single commune or area thereof, thus underlining the characteristics that a particular terroir gives to the wine. Within the denomination there are 43 Rive, and each one expresses a different and distinctive combination of soil, exposure and microclimate
Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Cartizze
Absolute top quality within the whole production area, Superiore di Cartizze comes from a sub-zone that has had its own specific regulations since 1969. It covers just 107 hectares of vineyards, lying amidst the steepest hillsides of San Pietro di Barbozza, Santo Stefano and Saccol, in Valdobbiadene. The perfect combination of a mild microclimate and ancient soils, made up of moraines, sandstone and clays, give these wines unique characteristics. The maximum yield is of 12 tonnes of grapes per hectare.
The nose is characterized by complex scents that recall apples and pears, citrus fruits, aromas of peaches and apricots and hints of roses, along with a note of almonds in the aftertaste.
Its flavour is well-balanced and elegant, with very fresh, mellow fruit underpinned by delicate, fine bubbles.
Sources: Consorzio TUTELA DEL VINO CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO; Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC
One of the most tannic grape varieties
in the world: Sagrantino
About the history
There are evidences of the presence of vines in 1088 and numerous documents -dated back to the 13th century- prove the care for viticulture.
From the first half of the 14th century, municipal laws began to protect the grapevine and wine. In 1622, Cardinal Boncompagni significantly intensified the sanctions established by the municipal statute, even foreseeing “the penalty of the gallows if anyone were to cut the grapevine.” In the 19th century, Calandri, in his essay, mentions Montefalco as “at the top among the states for its wines.”
In 1915, Franzi reconnects to the most ancient history of Sagrantino, confirming how it was “selected locally within the enclosed gardens of convents by the early followers of Saint Francis, and then spread to the surrounding territories.”
As with many other great gems of international oenology, even the most remote history of Sagrantino is tied to the production of sweet wines. However, it’s the more recent “dry” version that has enshrined this wine on the stage of great Italian reds.
Thanks to this new direction, Sagrantino embarked on its contemporary history, achieving DOC recognition in 1979 and DOCG recognition in 1992. A history in the making, yet increasingly clear, conscious, and mature, capable of highlighting various stylistic variations, in the wake of an unmistakable “Mediterranean” character defined by intensity, power, and extraordinary longevity.
Production area
The geographical area of production of Montefalco encompasses the entire municipal territory of Montefalco from which is named after and part of Bevagna, Giano dell’Umbria, Gualdo Cattaneo, Castel Ritaldi; all in the province of Perugia, in the heart of Umbria. It is a very small production area, with gentle slopes surrounded by ancient medieval villages.
The grape
Sagrantino is an indigenous grape variety from the Montefalco area, whose origins are lost in time. According to some sources, it would be native to Asia Minor and would have been imported by monks returning from the Holy Land. Others suggest it was already present in the area since Roman times, and it might be the same grape mentioned by Pliny the Elder. In any case, for years now, it has been giving rise to a red wine rich in tannins in the Montefalco region, and it’s also used for the passito version.
Types of wine
Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
This wine requires 100% Sagrantino grapes, with a minimum of 30 months of aging, of which at least twelve must be in wooden barrels, followed by an additional bottle aging period of at least 4 months.
The wine obtained from the Sagrantino grape is renowned for its remarkable intensity, concentration, and aging potential due to its high polyphenolic content.
Sagrantino is one of the most tannic grape varieties in the world and gives rise to wines with a very dark purple color.
On the nose, it is characterized by aromas of red fruits, cinnamon, and earth.
Montefalco Sagrantino passito DOCG
From the Sagrantino grapes, the traditional “passito” is also produced.
The bunches are carefully selected and left to dry on racks for at least 2 months; then, the must is vinified by fermenting it with the skins.
The resulting wine is quite unique because, despite being sweet, it remains rather dry.
Sources: Consorzio Montefalco
Sicily
Sicily is a region rich in history, art, and culture, but it’s also a region with deep and ancient wine traditions. Apart from enchanting visitors with its countless natural beauties and fragrances, Sicily also stands out for the diversity of its cuisine and the allure of its wines. In Sicily, wines with a long history like Marsala are born, as well as fragrant dessert wines like Passito di Pantelleria and Malvasia delle Lipari. Not to be forgotten are the Moscato wines of Noto and Siracusa, robust red wines, and intriguing white wines. These and many other wines are the architects of Sicily’s oenological revival and have also brought fame to the grapes they are made from, such as Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia, Zibibbo, Malvasia, and Nero d’Avola.
The viticultural territory of Sicily includes, in addition to the island itself (the largest in the Mediterranean), the Aeolian Islands and Pantelleria.
Etna Rosso: the wine born on the slopes of the Sicilian volcano
This Sicilian red, compared to the great Pinot Noirs of Burgundy, originates from extremely diverse volcanic soils combined with altitudes of up to 1000 meters above sea level. A wine of immense character and great complexity, it’s made special by three major factors: a mountainous climate on a Mediterranean island, volcanic soils with layers of different geological origins, and the prevalence of pre-phylloxera vines that yield wines with a higher concentration of soft and silky tannins.
The grape varieties that make up the Etna DOC red wine are Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, which contribute to making it a wine with high alcohol content (minimum 12.5%). The percentage must necessarily vary in these proportions: Nerello Mascalese must provide a minimum of 80% of the grapes, while Nerello Cappuccio can contribute the remaining grapes, but within a maximum of 20% of the total.
Marsala, the challenger to Port
Marsala was the first Italian wine to gain global recognition, primarily thanks to its main mentor, the Englishman John Woodhouse, hailing from Liverpool. We’re at the end of the 18th century, in a Sicily already renowned for its strong alcoholic wines at reasonable prices. The wine that gave birth to Marsala was locally known as “Perpetuum,” derived from the aging method, where a barrel was continuously topped up with the missing wine, mixed with the vintage wine, essentially representing a kind of Solera method carried out with a single barrel.
Woodhouse arrived in Marsala in 1773 and was struck by the quality of the local sweet wine, casually tasted in a tavern by the port. The English were experienced in fortified wines and needed to supply noble courts and the wealthy industrial bourgeoisie with wine. Constantly at war with France, Spain, and Portugal, the English were in search of products to replace Port, Madeira, or Sherry, depending on the ongoing political events. Woodhouse believed that suitably fortified Marsala wine could serve this purpose, so he loaded about fifty barrels with spirits to avoid altering the sensory characteristics during the journey. Later, as the market expanded, the Solera method of aging was adopted, the efficacy of which the English had already tested in Spain.
Marsala wine was more affordable compared to its Spanish and Portuguese counterparts, justifying the longer journey and ensuring much higher profits for traders. The success of Marsala attracted other English figures to Sicily, such as Hopps, Payne, and Ingham & Whitaker. The latter, along with Woodhouse (who they became partners with), established the first production regulations for Marsala in 1812. The fortune of the wine changed with the end of the prolonged hostilities when the English returned to favoring the closer Ports and Sherries.
In 1833, an Italian named Vincenzo Florio, the son of a wealthy Calabrian shipowner, founded the eponymous wineries in Marsala. With the support of the Florio family’s fleet of 99 ships, the success of the venture was assured. Through the acquisition of English-owned wineries, Florio became the undisputed magnate of Marsala. Following this success, other entrepreneurs opened their own wineries, such as Rallo in 1860 and Pellegrino in 1880.
The first setback in this story of success occurred with the American Prohibition, which banned the import of Marsala. By then, it had already gained a considerable market share through Sicilian immigration. This led to the downfall of Italy’s most prominent wine family. In 1931, the first laws and regulations protecting the product and delimiting the production area were introduced, but it wasn’t until 1963 that the Consortium for the Protection of Marsala DOC Wine was established, and 1969 saw Marsala become the first Italian product recognized as a DOC. The final blow to the Marsala market and reputation occurred in the 1970s with the introduction of flavored “egg” types, which deteriorated the product’s quality and distanced consumers from traditional Marsala.
The grape
For white grape Marsala (gold or amber category), the grape varieties used are Grillo, Catarratto, Ansonica, and Damaschino.
Wines produced from black grape varieties, falling under the “ruby” category, use Perricone, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello Mascalese.
The Production
Once the grapes are harvested and vinified, for the production of Marsala, grape must, grape spirit, or a mixture of both (mistella) can be added to the wine.
If it’s Marsala Vergine, nothing is added; in fact, its natural alcohol content can easily reach 18 degrees.
Once fortified, the wine is left to rest in 400-liter barrels stacked in a pyramid-like structure according to the Solera method.
The barrels are only filled to about 3/4 capacity, and with each successive harvest, the wine is progressively transferred to lower levels, oxidizing and concentrating. When it reaches the base, the wine is ready for bottling, and the cycle continues year after year.
The flavors and aromas of Marsala are referred to as “marsalati” or “mederizzati.” These are the typical nutty, dried fruit, and spice aromas resulting from the oxygen that has altered the wine’s aromatic profile.
In regular wines, their presence is synonymous with unintentional oxidation or aging, and as such, it’s considered a negative characteristic. However, it’s not the same for Marsala, thanks to its high sugar content, imposing structure, and fortification.
Types of wine
Depending on the wine’s color, sugar content, and production method, Marsala comes in the following types:
- Marsala Fine: at 17% alcohol by volume and with a minimum aging of 1 year. Available in dry, semi-dry, or sweet styles. It’s an aromatic, spiced wine, but not overly complex.
- Marsala Superiore: with 18% alcohol by volume and 24 months of barrel aging. Also available in dry, semi-dry, and sweet versions. the wine has a broad and complex bouquet, with notes of candied citrus, anise, and spices.
- Marsala Superiore Riserva: a particularly refined and structured superiore, aged for 48 months in wood.
- Marsala Vergine or Soleras: characterized by pronounced oxidative notes, intense and pungent aromas, floral spices, with hints of licorice, cinnamon, and caramelized fruit, honeyed but never sweet.
In fact, Marsala Vergine is never sweet; it stays under 40 grams of sugar per liter. It’s also ideal as an aperitif, with fish or seafood, just like Sherry.
- Marsala Vergine Stravecchio or Riserva: aged up to 120 months.
Sources: Quattro Calici; Svinando
One of the most productive regions of Italy: Puglia
Puglia has a territory that is roughly half hilly and half flat. Starting from the north, the first wine-growing area we encounter is Gargano, a promontory formed by limestone and eruptive rocks with sometimes steep surfaces covered by Mediterranean scrub.
Next is Tavoliere, still in the province of Foggia; then the Murge, a very extensive area covering the provinces of Barletta-Andria-Trani, Bari, and Brindisi.
finally, Salento with the province of Lecce and parts of Brindisi and Taranto.
The impressive vineyard surface area of Puglia has halved since the years of production boom, reaching about 95,000 hectares in 2010, with the vast majority situated on the plain.
The annual wine production exceeds 8 million hectoliters (2015). Currently, the region is undergoing a period of significant development in the wine sector, especially because after years of wine production based on high yields per hectare, mostly for bulk wines, now there is an effort to enhance the territory by achieving respectable levels of quality for some wines, particularly those made from indigenous grape varieties.
In Puglia, wine is produced practically everywhere, representing not only an economic resource but also a connection to the tradition and culture of these places. The wine production in Puglia is also favored by the climate and the amount of sunlight the land receives throughout the year.
The “alberello” (bush vine) is the most widespread cultivation system in Puglia as it allows the vine to fully exploit the soil’s resources, improving the quality of grapes and consequently, the wine.
The North and the Tavoliere
North of Bari, in the province of Foggia and the Tavoliere, Montepulciano and Sangiovese are cultivated as black grape varieties, and Bombino bianco and Tuscan Trebbiano as white grape varieties. Near Barletta, in the area of Castel del Monte, Uva di Troia and Bombino nero yield red wines of great structure, falling under the three DOCG labels Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG, and Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG. Moscato di Trani DOC, in its natural sweet and passito versions, is based on the Moscato bianco grape.
Salice Salentino
The wine region of Salice Salentino takes its name from the town of the same name in the province of Lecce. Winemaking here is primarily focused on red and rosé wines. Salento is one of the most important Italian regions for rosé wine production. It was in this area, in 1943, that Italy’s first rosé wine was bottled, the famous Five Roses by Leone de Castris. The red and rosé wines falling under the Salice Salentino DOC are produced from the Negro Amaro and Malvasia Nera grape varieties. Salice Salentino Bianco, mainly produced from Chardonnay grapes, and Salice Salentino Pinot Bianco are also notable. Another interesting wine is Salice Salentino Aleatico, produced in passito and fortified styles, which can include small proportions of Negro Amaro, Malvasia Nera, and Primitivo.
Primitivo di Manduria
Primitivo is the most widespread red grape variety in central Puglia and is used to produce Primitivo di Manduria, one of the region’s most important DOCs. Although Primitivo is now considered an indigenous grape of Puglia, this variety seems to be genetically similar to the Dalmatian grape Plavac Mali, and it is found in California under the name Zinfandel. The name “Primitivo” likely derives from its tendency to ripen earlier than other varieties. Primitivo di Manduria is produced with 100% Primitivo grapes, aged in barrels or barriques. Primitivo di Manduria is also produced in natural sweet and fortified versions, the latter in both sweet and dry styles.
Source: Quattro Calici
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